Tuesday, 26 November 2013

Mo crags, mo problems...

...Well that's the plan anyway.

Today I went trekking/hacking/slashing through some dense bush searching for some elusive climbable Nowra granite. Its out there I know it is...

Its just going to be in one of the most inhospitable areas I've ever tried to go...
4 hours in I decided to turn back after getting angry at every bush, tree, log, fly, bug, rock, the sun, the wind... Lets just say I got angry... Granite everywhere, just nothing remotely big enough to climb on...

I did, however, find yet another sandstone bouldering crag.

The groove on the left look amazing!
Maybe 6m at this part with the whole boulder being about 9m!
Thought it was going to be more samey lines but perched on top of a hill is a big orange monster. At about 6m high and climbable on 3 sides (4th and approach side has a horrible 'landing'...), with one side overhanging at about 40 degrees, the others just overhanging slightly.

It also has some of the best lines I have ever seen.

Climbable but horrible landing.. Lovely colour though!

Steep and lots of holds! Will be a few lines here!

Awesome bit of rock with 2 of the best lines I've ever seen.
The overhanging arete on the left (maybe V6ish) and in between the first set of black stripes (maybe V9ish).

Not at the same crag but another (yeah another) area a couple of kms down the road.
Lovely highball at about 5-6m.

This takes it to 6 new crags that I'm developing within an hours drive.... Anyone want some first ascents?


In other news, the North Black Range Festival was a success!

On the Saturday the weather was pretty rubbish with mist everywhere keeping everything damp (still quite a few sends though!) but about 40 people turned up to clean and climb.
Sunday was much better with about 70 people out amongst the rocks...
All in all, over 50 new problems were put up with many more cleaned. Nice work everyone!

Dan Fisher on the 2nd ascent of Single Female Lawyer sit V8
Photo: Tim @ FirstAscentPhotography.com.au
I put down the beer long enough to have a few throws on Knob Jockey V8/9.
Photo: Tim @ FirstAscentPhotography.com.au
Here's a vid I did that weirdly has no first ascents... Oops.

Sunday, 20 October 2013

Hey look!

Its a blog post!

Long time since the last post... So much has happened in the past few months but not really much in the way of fantastic first ascents... Annoyingly.

Just a quick run down:
First trip to the Grampians came and went. Was very close on a couple of V7s (Flash Gordon @ Kindergarten and Whipped Cream @ Cave Club) and even closer on a V9 (Bismark @ Andersens). Maybe if I took at rest day at all, I would've got it... Can't wait to go back!

Working Flash Gordon.

New bouldering area found about 30min away... Very jungley setting that I have named The Lost World. So far I've only put up a handful of problems but quite a few cleaned and ready to be projected. Still lots of exploring to do as well!

Deep in the jungle!!

Went to a small crag that used to be home to Australia's first 25 (7b). Years of loose falling rock and newer bigger crags (Nowra...) being developed had turned this once thriving crag into a route-less, undeveloped quarry... Poor Bombo... Definitely potential for some stellar routes! But did put up a handful of new problems on sketchy slippery basalt... Abit of a shame there wasn't more! Really fun climbing but felt like we did every line there... And why did every problem have a committing move for the top?

Yianni on the 2nd ascent of Right Break V3

Have also checked out a new bush sandstone bouldering area with a few lines done so far with quite a bit of potential... Will have to head back soon!

Josh working a new line. Felt about V5-6.

With the weather getting warmer, the deep water solo development has been coming along slowly. Maybe if I didn't pick such a hard and nice line!

Yianni setting up for the main event...

What a great little crag. Maybe 20 lines plus linkups..

Also been getting over to Canberra for some granite action in a massive area called North Black Range. There is about 400 problems done already with at least another 600 still to go... There is a bouldering festival happening in November (16-17) with hopefully a couple hundred people coming to put up loads of new lines... Check the Facebook page for more info: www.facebook.com/northblackrangeboulderingfestival2013 Come along!

V4 my arse!! Neither of us could do it!!

And on the subject of North Black, here's a video of a few problems from this weekend including Marty's first V5! Nice one!



Jack out.

Wednesday, 15 May 2013

New video

Weather here is starting to get cooler and that means more climbing...

More and more problems are being put up with my recent discovery of a new bouldering area only 30min drive away.

Lovely wall... Except the roof of the cave is at 8ft high!
Lovely curvature...
Not quite cold enough for slopers...
With that in mind, here's a video of some recent first ascents...


Tuesday, 30 April 2013

8 Bit Hero - V6

Now I found this line at the end of March and actually first climbed it about 2 weeks ago. Many attempts over 4 sessions to get it. There was always the one move that scuppered me. Slopey roof lip and keeping a heel hook... Useless heel.

When I finally got it, of course it was filmed (one of these attempts had to be the one!) but looking back at the video, it was some of the worst climbing I've ever seen, let alone done.... It was just shite. Wasn't happy.

8 Bit Hero straight up the middle.
Lot 34 - Bomaderry Creek, Nowra
So waited for another cool day and headed back to redo and video it. Warmed up and then fired it off first go with camera going. No probs.

Ended up doing it 4 times filming from various angles but most importantly: ALOT smoother than the actual FA! So here's a vid of MANY failed attempts and then a few successes.
Don't ask what's going on with my head banging near the end... I didn't realise I did it....

8 Bit Hero - V6
Lot 34 Nowra
FA Jack Folkes 16/4/13

Enjoy.


8 Bit Hero - V6 from Jack Folkes on Vimeo.

Monday, 22 April 2013

Moment of brilliance. No wait! Utter stupidity, that's the one...

You know those moments in life that you think: Na, that'll never happen to me...
Well, that just DID happen to me...

Now broken heels and dynos aside, I'm generally fairly sensible when it comes to climbing... I like solos (only easy stuff over land, no death drops and definitely DWS) and highballs (only with many pads and good spotters) even if they do sometimes scare the shit out of me.

Went for a quick climb 30min drive away this afternoon to work on a V7. Chucked shoes, gear, pad etc into car and headed off. Got to the crag, warmed up in thongs on various stuff, brushed the problem... Grabbed my shoes and chalk out to get on it. Hold on a sec. I didn't... Yes dumbfuck, you did.

Dumb ass here, in my haste to grab my shoes managed to grab 2 leftys... Same shoe, same size but one pair is older and significantly more worn in (read: no toe rubber...).

Tried stuffing my other foot into one with no luck. Instant cramps. So I worked the problem for abit with only one shoe before hurriedly going home in disgust.

Dick head.
Modern climbing shoes just aren't made with morons in mind are they...
Yeah barefoot on one side, shoe on the other working a V7.



Tuesday, 16 April 2013

I'm lazy so here's some photos.

Who likes photos?

Lack of internet interspersed with various bits of climbing...

We have some random creatures....
Projects... Always projects..
These are some of the harder (V6 and up) lines I'm working on in my area under development..

Sit start the huecos, up some slopey crimps into a sloper nightmare of a top out...
Not quite done yet. Sit start under the prow, up through slopers to an easy-ish topout.
Yeah yeah Duma, jungle, I know...
Stand start crimpy rail, up through gastons and pockets to another slopey hell top out...
Lowball, 45 deg... But hard!
Only 3 moves, I can do 1 of them... The top out.
Guessing around V9ish.
Decent wall (15-20m) with some route potential.
Spotted a line I'd like to do... Only because it looks like a monster dyno in there...

Next couple are from where I stay near the new area.



My pool.
Nice view from where I eat breakfast....
Point Perp hidden by weather....

Went out to Point Perpendicular the other day for some easy soloing.
This is also around where I think there is plenty of DWS potential... Have been trying to get water access (cliffs up to 80-90m!) but the weather keeps conspiring against me whenever we put a jetski in....

Raptures Wall, routes up to 30m.
Bowen Island and South head of Jervis Bay. Point Perp is North head.
Looking West through the various bays on the North Head. Jervis Bay behind.
Big enough... Think this is about 75-80m.
Lower cliff has worse rock, less routes and much more of a mission to get to.
Upper cliff has a couple hundred routes. Mainly trad and not to high in the grades.

Thursday, 28 March 2013

So many projects....

I love discovering new lines...

But it means I have so many projects, dammit.

Found another little wall in Nowra that has a couple of routes, a warm up traverse and a V11 dyno...
And 3 new lines that look fucking cool.

Stupid projects..

Smallish wall. Semi-death fall to the left though...
No wild swinging without spotters and pads!
1: Start in the break, left heal on, slap out to slopey lip of roof. Swap heals, match lip, yard up through slopey dishes to top. About V6, would just prefer a cool day for pinching the lip, a spotter and another pad before I do it!

2: This thing is HARD.... Like REALLY HARD... Start in break, couple of moves through slopers, right hand to a small vertical undercut. MASSIVE move out to the lip (not a hold), bump to ultra-slopey dish (I'm face on the roof at full span here). Some trickery (toehooks under roof maybe?) to get other slopey dish, then top somehow... Seriously hard, like V12/13/14 hard...
Sit/laying start, up pinchy feature, high heal-toe cam to rollover  into slopey side-pull crimp, unwind and pop for top.
Stand start alone looks like about V8. Sitter looks V8/9.
V11 dyno on left edge of pic to break at top.
Another dyno I've had my eye on. Started clearing up the loose rocky landing area...
She's a big jump off a crimpy side-pull flake to a slopey pocket/dish.
Have another pano from the other day...